Rome Travel Guide; What to Eat, Where to Wander, and Why You Don’t Need a Checklist
Rome doesn’t need your checklist.
I have a secret to share: with all of my worldly travels, I had NEVER been to Italy until this year. It was for good reason though: I was afraid that I wouldn’t come home. When I told many people that I was starting with Rome, I got a lot of “I didn’t like Rome” and “that was my least favorite city.” Having been to Rome, I can absolutely tell you that it’s one of my favorite cities I’ve ever been to, that I would absolutely spend a few months living there without a question. And I have a hot take; if you didn’t like it, then I can say with certainty that you did Rome all wrong.
Want to explore Rome off the beaten path? I promise that you don’t have to walk into the Vatican, melt for hours in line to go into the Colosseum in the heat, stand in line for gelato you found on TikTok, or toss a coin into the Trevi to feel like you did the city. And IF that’s how you did Rome, I can absolutely understand why you might not have liked it.
It became very clear to me that the quieter parts of Rome are where the spirit of this incredible city actually settles in and I’m here to suggest that maybe you skip the famous sights and give a bit more space and time to the neighborhoods and details that tend to get overlooked. Rome has incredible food, quaint and charming side streets, artisan markets, and endless alleyways and corners to explore. The everyday rhythm of people who live here is what stood out most during my time in Rome and if you would like to explore the same city I did, here’s my 3 day Rome travel guide for those of you who like to explore off the beaten path.
3 Days in Rome: Where to Eat
The Testaccio Market is where I spent most of my time when I wanted to eat something that felt local and straightforward. Aim to get there mid-morning or after the busy lunch rush (it closes at 3:30 PM every day). In Rome, at most places, you can order pizza by the cut. You will point to the pizza you want and show with your hands how much, then they cut, warm it if you want to eat it right away, and weigh it before wrapping it in paper. It’s simple and efficient, and allows you to try all the pizzas your heart desires. Inside the market you’ll find incredibly inventive pizza options at Casa Manco. It was so good it is absolutely on my must try list!
Cacio e pepe and carbonara are must tries when you’re in Rome and you could get easily overwhelmed by which version is supposed to be the best. I took a few recommendations, but also just paid attention to places that felt steady and lived-in while I was there. My number one recommendation in Rome is to eat outside (and generally just stay away from) the Centro Storico, which includes the areas of the Piazza Navona, the Pantheon, Campo de’ Fiori, and the Jewish Ghetto. Instead, I looked for places while I wandered the neighborhoods outside of the city center that felled homey, unchanged, and lived in. Some of my best meals were the quietest ones.
That being said, in Trastevere, things feel different. The food is still central, but at night, the energy shifts. It’s louder. Brighter. Tables spill into the street and conversations stretch well past dinner. Even if you’ve been during the day, it’s a neighborhood that really comes alive at night. There’s a looseness to the rhythm here. You might be walking to one restaurant and end up at another just because a table opened up outside or the kitchen smelled right. It’s easy to stay longer than planned and to wander the twists and turns of their cobblestone streets for far longer than you intended. One of my absolute favorite meals was at Meridionale, a spot a client recommended. Her husband is Italian and their family frequents it. The cacio e pepe and the vibe there did not disappoint.
One night I booked a dinner at a local’s house through EatWith, and that felt like one of the more lasting parts of the trip. Sharing a meal in someone’s apartment made everything feel more immediate and what a meal this was! Barbara has been hosting her nightly dinner party for ELEVEN years! It was loud, vibrant, and completely sold out with 14 people sharing appetizers, too much wine and an incredibly decadent 14 layer homemade lasagna together. A bunch of us ended up at my favorite Trastevere wine bar and restaurant after and it was the one night of the trip that I woke up very late and a little hungover! And it was absolutely worth it. If you’re visiting Rome, I cannot recommend booking a meal in Barbara’s home enough.
Looking for carbonara? A short walk from the Colosseum at dusk is a great way to end the day. That part of the city softens in the evening, and the crowds thin out just enough to enjoy the scale of it without being overwhelmed. Don’t get me wrong: there are plenty of tourists milling about, but a much more manageable number, a beautiful sky, and the plazas are filled with street musicians which add just the right amount of ambiance. From there, I wandered into the Esquilino neighborhood, which felt residential in a way I appreciated. Quiet, with a few well loved restaurants tucked between apartment buildings. I had a glass of wine at RADICI, a lively corner spot full of locals, before heading to Le Caveau for carbonara on the street.
Rome off the beaten path: Drink
Look now: there are rules to coffee in Rome. First of all, if you’re having an espresso, you have it standing at the counter. Drink it in a few sips and move on. And for the love of everything holy, do not order thinks in a takeaway cup. In most cafés, the locals don’t sit unless they’re staying a while or ordering more than a quick espresso. If you’re just having coffee, standing is the norm. Tables are fine later in the day, especially if you’re ordering something else or a latte, or taking a proper break, but otherwise, stand, sip, and stroll.
Wine is different. Even the smaller wine bars seem to create a pocket of calm and I found a plethora that offered local, natural, and biodynamic wines that were inventive and creative. You don’t need to study the list or know anything technical. Most places will guide you if you ask. I usually just said what I was in the mood for and went with whatever they poured. I love a good surprise.
In Trastevere, I ended every evening at Latteria Trastevere. It was relaxed and welcoming, with shelves of bottles to the ceiling, a wonderful staff, and a bustling, beautiful and inviting patio. The food is also stellar. I became a bit of a regular, sometimes starting and ending my evening there with my book.
If you have designs on walking through Vatican City, then don’t sleep on the adjacent neighborhood of Prati. On one side of it, you’ll find Fischio, the perfect outdoor patio for a quick pet-nat before you wander the food market stalls for lunch at the Mercato dell’ Unità. Finish with an espresso with it’s cup coated in chocolate at the historic Sciascia Caffe 1919. If you absolutely must wander the Centro Storico, then from Prati you pop over the bridge to the Piazza del Popolo, stop into Enoteca Buccone for a glass of wine, and then wander through the city center past the Spanish Steps, across the pantheon, and then, not far from Piazza Navona, you’ll find Enoteca Cul de Sac tucked into a tiny alley corner with a fantastic patio for people watching, a long delightful wine list and a small plate of cheese and charcuterie.
Where to Stay in Rome Off the Beaten Path
Where you stay in Rome makes all the difference if you’re looking for a unique travel experience. There’s a noticeable contrast between the tourist center and the neighborhoods just outside of it. First of all, Rome has an incredible metro system, so you’ve got the ability to stay outside the tourist cooridor and still explore easily. Second, they’ve got something I absolutely love: Lime Scooters. Third, I would much rather live amongst locals where it’s a bit quieter with the kind of energy I’m looking for.
Personally, I stayed on the edge of Testaccio, which is quieter, but fuller in a different sense. I arrived on a Sunday and all the locals were out enjoying each other in the park and on the streets, reading newsapapers, walking dogs, and chatting with neighbors. There are more families and older couples. Testaccio has GREAT street art, amazing food culture, and the tourism infrastructure is delightfully non-exisitent, which makes it feel more like a place you’re borrowing for a few days.
If you want proximity to central rome, but without the noise, I would consider Monti. It’s artsy and bohemian, with narrow streets, plenty of independent shops, tons of wine bars, cheap eats, and a bright, lively atmosphere thanks to all the students that abound here.
If you’re someone who likes street art and longer walks, I’d consider Pigneto or Ostiense. Pigneto felt especially fun and vibrant to me. It’s filled with a young crowd enjoying each other’s company along Via del Pigneto at any one of the numerous cafes and wine bars with outdoor seating. There’s a TON of amazing street art in both neighborhoods, but Ostiense is particularly covered in it thanks to it’s focus from artists who have turned the walls of it’s once abandoned buildings, train underpasses, and apartment blocks into canvases for spectacular murals.
What to Do in Rome Off the Beaten Path
When I travel, especially in European cities, I spend most of my time wandering neighborhoods. I don’t build schedules or chase museums. I don’t stand in lines. I walk with no real plan, looking for street art, places that feel lived in, and small shops or bars that catch my attention. Rome was perfect for that kind of travel.
There’s so much to see if you’re just willing to look up. Rome is full of my favorite street artist, Invader, and I found a fraction of his work just cruising through neighborhoods. All of the above mentioned neighborhoods have his tile mosaics are scattered across buildings and corners. You’ll spot one tucked high on a wall or above a doorframe, usually when you’ve already walked past it. Once you start looking, they’re everywhere.
Beyond that, the beauty of wandering here is that you find hidden gems, tiny courtyards and bits of light that delight you. There were murals stretching across entire apartment buildings, parks filled with locals reading newspapers, and glasses of wine available on every corner.
If you’re someone who likes structure and plans, that’s fine. But if you get joy from just walking until something feels interesting, Rome is one of the best cities I’ve found for that.
Is my way of exploring Rome off the beaten path more your style too? My wanderlust is next level and I love nothing more than to travel. If you would like more travel guides, just head to my blog. If you are interested in prints for sale, contact me today!
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