I waited a long time to visit Italy, partly because I worried I wouldn’t want to leave. When I finally went, I skipped the gelato lines (I don't eat it y'all), the tourist grid, the standard spots, and wandered neighborhoods instead. I ate carbonara on a side street in Esquilino, hunted down Space Invader mosaics across Pigneto, and became a regular at a wine bar in Trastevere. If you’re ready to experience Rome off the beaten path my way, this guide is for you.